What Diamonds Does Rolex use? Complete Guide
Rolex is a company that takes its gem-setting very seriously. In fact, Rolex invests heavily into gem-setting and even has a separate factory that is reserved for gem-setting and its gemologists.
As you probably know, Rolex is a company that only satisfies with perfection. Rolex only chooses the best materials, and if the material with the correct properties exists, Rolex simply goes out and develops its own.
With that said, when it comes to gem-setting and choosing the gemstones for its watches, it doesn’t come as a surprise that only satisfies with the very best, most perfect gemstones for its timepieces.
Since Rolex doesn’t make its own diamonds (for obvious reasons) Rolex must develop a waterproof inspection process in order to inspect each and every single diamond (and gemstone) before it is approved for use in a watch.
This leads us to ask the question., what diamonds Does Rolex use? And what is Rolex’s process for selecting them?
That’s what we are going to look closer at in this article.
What diamonds Does Rolex use?
Unlike other watch brands, Rolex’s diamond-set watches don’t come with a diamond document or certificate that specifies the details about the diamonds used. But the good news is that if you have a diamond-set Rolex watch, or are considering buying one, you can feel safe in the fact that Rolex only picks the very best diamonds. That is of course only if you buy a factory-gem set Rolex and not one that has aftermarket diamonds.
In Rolex’s own words:
”Rolex keeps only the most translucent stones. For diamonds, no inclusions must be present when the stone is observed at 10 x magnification. The final criterion, colour, is always evaluated by eye, requiring the gem-setter’s seasoned aesthetic judgement. To complete the process, the stones are compared against certified master stones. Rolex uses only the most colourless diamonds; they must be within the highest grades of the Gemological Institute of America colour chart – in colour ranges D to G.”
Let’s summarize Rolex’s criteria when selecting the diamonds:
- No inclusions must be present when the stone is observed at 10 x magnification
- Diamonds must be within the highest grades of the Gemological Institute of America color chart in color ranges D to G. These are the four highest grades of color
- All diamonds must be of the very highest quality
- All diamonds must be perfectly uniform
- Diamonds must be at least IF (internally flawless) in clarity on the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) scale.
How Rolex selects its diamonds
Each and every single diamond that Rolex uses for its watches are individually tested. To make this possible, and to uphold a high standard, Rolex has its very own division of gemologists and specialist tools, some of which are specially designed by Rolex themselves.
To uphold the very best standard of diamonds and other gemstones, Rolex’s testing and analysis tools are really state-of-the-art, identical to those found in the best independent gemology labs. Thanks to these tools, the gemologists can therefore identify the natural origin of each stone that is used on Rolex’s gem-set watches.
When Rolex receives diamonds, each and every single one of them are tested via X-ray imaging to confirm their authenticity.
Rolex’s gemologists are responsible for sourcing, buying, and testing each and every diamond that is used for its watches.
In Rolex’s own words:
”Each gemstone is closely examined by the in-house gemmology laboratory, which ensures strict compliance with the specifications defined by the brand.” In other words, Rolex puts such great importance in the art of gem-setting that they have their very own gemology laboratory in-house.
In selecting the diamonds for its watches, Rolex follows the standards set out by the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO).
The color of the diamonds is evaluated by the naked eye by Rolex’s exceptionally talented gemologists. In doing this assessment, Rolex’s own gemmologists work with CIBJO master stones. These are stones that are certified and provided by an independent laboratory.
In terms of color, Rolex only satisfies with the four highest grades of color, ranges D to G. In practice, this means that Rolex’s diamonds must meet the standardized classification of ‘exceptional white +’, ‘exceptional white’, ‘rare white +’ or ‘rare white’,
Rolex also puts great emphasis on the cut of the diamonds as they play a crucial role in their brilliance and sparkle. The proportions, symmetry, and polish of the facets will ultimately all affect how the light penetrates the stone.
When it comes to the way Rolex diamonds are cut, Rolex only uses brilliant-cut, full cut, 8/8 cut, baguette cut, trapeze cut, asymmetric and triangular stones.
In the case of diamonds, a well-cut stone accentuates the intensity and number of reflections, which can even result in rainbow hues. Clarity relates to the absence of faults in a stone.- Rolex
As the gemstones are natural, it is not unusual for inclusions to be present. This is why it is a challenge to only find the most perfect, flawless diamonds.
Setting the diamonds
Once the gemologists have approved and inspected the diamonds, it is time for the highly competent gem-setters to work their magic. Rolex is known for some of the best and most perfect gem-setting with extreme precision of alignment, position, and finishing of the beads. All of which is the job of the gem-setters.
When it comes to gem-setting, Rolex’s tolerances are to within no more than two-hundredths of a millimeter.
The gem-setters work with four traditional gem-setting techniques. Of course depending on the type of watch and gems required. Some of the techniques used include bead setting, claw setting, channel setting (baguette setting), and bezel setting.
Does Rolex use lab-grown diamonds?
No. Rolex only uses natural stones. To ensure that no diamonds used are lab-grown or fake, Rolex has a rigorous testing protocol to identify diamonds that do not meet the brand’s high standards.
Is Rolex diamond real?
Yes, Rolex only uses real, natural diamonds and gemstones in its watches. Each diamond and gemstone is rigorously tested.
As mentioned, each diamond that Rolex uses is X-ray imaging to confirm its authenticity.
