Omega Speedmaster 321 Stainless Steel “Ed White” Complete Guide
On January 7th, 2020, Omega announced the release of the much anticipated Speedmaster made in stainless steel with the legendary 321 caliber!
The new Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Chronograph 321 “Ed White” reference has appropriately been released on the first Speedy Tuesday of 2020 and exactly one year after the brand announced the rebirth of the legendary Caliber 321.
The reborn Caliber 321 was first announced in a full platinum version Speedmaster, thus with a price tag making it only available to a fortunate few. But as expected, Omega has now announced a full stainless steel Speedmaster incorporating the caliber 321 which is more accessibly priced at 13,000 CHF. Now, we are not saying this is cheap, but seeing it gives you the possibility of owning a watch with the reborn caliber 321 without paying CHF 55,000 for the Platinum version, it’s a welcomed release.
Whilst Omega did not announce they would release a full stainless steel version incorporating the 321 movement when they announced the full platinum version, it was only a matter of time. In recent years, there has been a lot of discussion and speculation about how the new Speedmaster 321 would look. Not to mention when it would be released. Why was it only a matter of time before a stainless steel version using the 321 would become available? Well, because Omega has invested great resources into promoting and developing this modernized caliber, it would simply not make financial sense to use it for a watch that would be made in highly limited numbers.
A lot of people believed that the stainless steel version would be similar in design to the platinum version, which means onyx dial and meteorite subdials, but time has obviously shown that this would not come to become the case. Perhaps partly because onyx and meteorite do not suit the taste of the large mass, but also because these are not cheap materials. This would have resulted in a model that, whilst cheaper than the platinum version, would still have a price that would scare away too many potential customers.
As described by Omega:
“The 39.70 mm case is in stainless steel and is inspired by the same 3rd generation style that astronaut Ed White wore during America’s first spacewalk in 1965. There is also a bezel ring in polished black ceramic [ZrO2] with the tachymeter scale in white enamel.”
Omega Speedmaster 321 “Ed White” Stainless steel
With that said, the new Speedmaster 321 stainless steel ref 311.30.40.30.01.001 proved to not use any of these materials. Instead, we have been served with a stainless steel Speedmaster with straight lugs, ceramic bezel, sapphire crystal, and of course a see-through case back that proudly displays the LEGENDARY caliber 321.
The steel Speedmaster 321 has taken its inspiration from the reference vintage reference 105.003 – also known as “Ed White”, which is why we will probably see this new watch adopt the same nickname. The nickname derives from its connection with Ed White, who was the first Astronaut to use the Speedmaster 105.003 during an EVA on June 3rd, 1965 (Gemini IV mission). White was on board the Apollo 1 after having been selected for the Apollo program. Unfortunately, he and the other two crew members Chaffee and Grissom were killed during the Apollo 1 accident on January 27th, 1967.
When it comes to the legendary caliber 321 which makes this new watch so immensely special, Omega previously reported that each movement would be assembled and adjusted by one single watchmaker at Omega’s production facility in Biel. This has also proven to be the case for the watch itself.
This means that unlike most other timepieces and calibers, one watchmaker will be responsible for a specific watch from start to finish.
The new Speedmaster steel 321 will not be a limited edition timepiece, however, due to its complex nature, and the fact that the brand has developed a specific department in its factory which will only work with the 321 caliber and timepieces, the production capacity will be limited. With that said, due to the legendary and hyped status of this historically important timepiece, there will probably be waitlists in order to buy this model from authorized Omega retailers.
Omega has said they are only producing around 2000 caliber 321 per year, and this is across all their models. This means that (probably) less than 2000 pieces of the steel Speedmaster 321 will be made per year.
Omega Speedmaster 321 steel specifications
Dial
The dial of the steel 321 Speedmaster features a matte-grained surface with a stepped dial in true Speedmaster fashion. Whilst the watch is not a reissue of the 105.003ST “Ed White”, it has borrowed several design elements from this timepiece. Furthermore, it has an applied Omega logo with a vintage font for the “Omega” and “Speedmaster” prints. The applied logo is also made to look like the old Omega logo.
The indexes have a slight brown hue to them but are not as brown/yellow as Omega’s timepieces that are made with “faux patina” lume. The hands and indexes are of course applied with Suuperluminova.
The hands are very familiar, with a classic baton shape and a diamond-shaped seconds hand. The sub-dials are slightly recessed as you would expect on a Speedmaster, which naturally contributes to a greater depth on the dial.
Case
The case of this new Speedmaster 321 311.30.40.30.01.001 has straight lugs. This stays true to the original Great White from which it has taken its inspiration. Furthermore, it does not have any crown guards.
The case measures 39.7mm in diameter, and if you are a fan of the 1957 Speedmaster reissue or older Speedmasters with straight lugs, it will feel very familiar on the wrist. As you would expect, the case has a quality finish with brushed and polished elements. The lugs are polished and the flanks brushed.
Interesting to note is that this watch is equipped with a sapphire crystal. If it would be a true re-edition of the Ed White, it would use a hesalite crystal, but this just goes to show that this is not what Omega is trying to achieve. What’s more, a sapphire crystal is obviously much more practical as it does not scratch in the same way that a hesalite crystal does. But to add a bit of vintage effect, the sapphire crystal is domed.
A welcomed element of this watch is the black ceramic insert. Naturally, aluminum inserts scratch and fade over time, but a ceramic insert will keep its luster and colors. Plus, it is virtually scratch-proof. As a vintage nod, it features what collectors call “DON” – Dot Over Ninety. This means that the 90 marker on the bezel has a dot marker over it, which is a bezel detail that commands a great premium on the vintage Speedmaster market.
Bracelet
The bracelet is the perfect match for this vintage-inspired timepiece. It is inspired by the vintage bracelets which can be found on the 105.003ST. The vintage bracelets carry the reference 1039. The bracelet has a lug width of 19mm and combines brushed and polished elements, perfectly executed with a modern folding clasp with pushers on the sides. The flat links together with the tapering allow for a really comfortable fit. This has been proven with the Speedmaster Apollo 11 and the Speedmaster 1957 amongst others, which are equipped with similar bracelets (although a 20mm lug width and slightly thicker links).
Caliber 321
The legendary caliber 321 fitted in this Speedmaster “Ed White” does not need much introduction by now. But if you want to read about it in detail, we invite you to read our complete guide to the Omega caliber 321.
It’s no surprise that Omega wouldn’t cover this movement with a solid case back for this new model – and we are glad they didn’t.
Not only is the revised 321 caliber historically important and technically advanced, but it is also astonishingly beautiful.
At large, the new 321 is very similar to the original 321 caliber that Omega produced. This movement was used in the reference 105.003, 105.012, and 145.012. However, to stay up-to-date with the standards of modern watchmaking, it has incorporated modern technology in order to improve its reliability, durability, and performance. This, amongst other things, means a slightly longer power reserve of 55 hours vs. 44 hours.
For a stunning visual effect, the movement has been plated in Sedna gold to resemble the original copper-colored parts.
It is also the exact same movement that the full platinum version uses.
Omega Speedmaster Stainless steel 321 “Ed white” availability & Price
The Omega Speedmaster 321 stainless steel reference 311.30.40.30.01.001 will be available at authorized Omega retailers from early 2020 but no exact date has been announced yet.
When it was launched, the retail price of Omega Speedmaster steel 321 was:
- 13,000 CHF
- 149,500 SEK
- £10,200
Omega Speedmaster steel 321 Specifications
- Between lugs: 19 mm
- Bracelet: steel
- Case: Steel
- Case diameter: 39.7 mm
- Dial color: Black
- Crystal: Scratch‑resistant sapphire crystal with anti‑reflective treatment inside
- Water resistance: 5 bar (50 meters / 167 feet)
- Chronograph
- Small seconds
- Tachymeter
- Transparent case back
- Case: stainless steel with a ceramic bezel
- zirconium oxide bezel.
- Movement, Omega caliber 321, hand-wound lateral clutch column-wheel chronograph with overcoil balance, 55-hour power reserve.
