3 Types of Watches You Must Have in Your Collection
When starting out collecting watches, you may be overwhelmed by all of the brands, models, and materials that are out there. Where should you start? Starting your collection might, therefore, be a bit confusing, involving a lot of watches you want to try out and sooner will swap out for others.
Because of this, it can be wise to start your collection by choosing three different types of watches that complement each other well, but also covers a vast field of functions that can be useful for you. Here are the top three types of watches that one of our editors thinks everyone should have in their collection.
Dive Watch
One of the most iconic watches of all time is, of course, a divers watch. What truly signifies a divers watch is the one-directional bezel with an insert that is used to time your diving session, a minimum of 100 meters water resistance, luminous dial, hands, and an insert with hash marks.
Perhaps one of the most discussed topics in the debate of divers watches is whether Blancpain or Rolex introduced the iconic look that signifies what we today often recognize a divers watch for. Because of this reason, Tudor as a brand and their Divers watches should be recommended.
Tudor Black Bay Heritage 41 reference 79220B
In 2012 Tudor introduced their Black Bay Heritage line and once again started to focus a lot on its heritage with Divers watches. The model truly represents the heritage of Tudor and their divers watches and their relation to their mother company Rolex.
Key stats about the watch:
Reference number: 79220B
Size: 41mm
Water resistance: 200m
Movement: Modified ETA 2824
Lug width: 22mm
Tudor Black Bay Heritage 39 reference 79030N
At Basel world in 2018 Tudor introduced another diving watch in the Black Bay Heritage Collection, The Tudor Black Bay Heritage 39mm reference 79030N. This model in many eyes reminds more of the original Tudors divers watch in terms of size. Not only was this model a huge success because of its’ smaller size, but also as Tudor had equipped the watch with their in-house movement MT5402 featuring a 72 hours power reserve.
Key stats about the watch:
Reference number: 79030N
Size: 39mm
Water resistance: 200m
Movement: In-House caliber MT5402
Lug width: 20mm
Omega as a brand has competed a lot with its dive watches and ever since the Seamaster Professional was presented to the market and has been a huge favorite among collectors. The Seamaster with the iconic twisted lugs and a bracelet that features a diving extension is a perfect option in our eyes.
Key stats about the watch:
Reference number: 212.30.41.20.01.003 (Black Dial)
Size: 41mm
Water resistance: 300m
Movement: In-House Co-Axial Calibre 2500
Lug width: 20mm
In 2018 Omega upgraded its Seamaster line with a bigger case that is 42mm, the option of having a rubber or upgraded steel bracelet, a new in-house movement visible from the case back, and new dial configurations. The new model has become a huge success for Omega, although Omega previously competed with Tudor and Rolex this was a game-changer.
Key stats about the watch:
Reference number: 210.30.42.20.01.001 (Black Dial)
Size: 42mm
Water resistance: 300m
Movement: In-House Omega Master Chronometer Calibre 8800
Lug width: 20mm
GMT Watch
Made for aviators, the GMT complication is useful to keep track of different timezones. To simplify the mechanical function, a GMT watch is usually equipped with a fourth hand that is independent and can be set on its’ own to keep track of an additional timezone of your choice. A GMT watch is a great watch and complication to complement your Divers Watch. Rolex presented the iconic look of a two-colored bezel also commonly known as Pepsi (red and blue) or coke (red and black).
In Basel world, 2018 Tudor presented another watch to their heritage collection. The new Tudor GMT became a huge success and once again Tudor did impress their audience. With the red and blue bi-directional bezel, no crown guards, and the riveted bracelet it did very much remind of Rolex original GMT Master reference 6542.
Key stats about the watch:
Reference number: 79830RB
Size: 42mm
Water resistance: 200m
Movement: Manufacture Calibre MT5652
Lug width: 22mm
Breitling and aviation go very well in hand and therefore an aviation watch from the brand is a must to include in our recommendations to an affordable luxury GMT watch. This specific Avenger 2 GMT from Breitling features the Breitling logo with wings with a B in the middle which has been a favorite among its audience. The blue dial with the contrasting red GMT hand and text on the dial are details that make it easy to like the watch.
Key stats about the watch:
Reference number: A3239011
Size: 43mm
Water resistance: 300m
Movement: B32 (modified ETA2893-2)
Lug width: 22mm
Chronograph Watch
The chronographs were at the beginning made for timing aviation time, in order to keep track of how long the airplanes were able to time without running out of gas. The chronographs are however more known for timing distances and speed using the outer bezel and the chronograph hand. The sub-dials fitted on the dial of a chronograph are also often able to track time such as minutes (up to 30 minutes) and hours (normally up to 12 hours). This is a fun complication to have in your collection and can actually be useful in your everyday life.
Although the Omega Speedmaster probably most are known for its connection to NASA and space, in fact, the Speedmaster originally was made as a racing watch to keep the time of laps. Whether you see it as a space watch or a racing watch, this is a must-have chronograph in any collection and is without a doubt one of the best affordable luxury chronographs on the market. The iconic look is well-known for any watch collector and this is a watch you just can’t go wrong with.
Key stats about the watch:
Reference number: 311.30.42.30.01.005
Size: 42mm
Water resistance: 50m
Movement: Mechanical Calibre 1861
Lug width: 20mm
Tag Heuer and their Monaco just like the Speedmaster is one of the most well-known and iconic watches of all time. The rectangular case and the heritage of racing are really something this watch is recognized for. Because of the legacy of this watch, some limited editions related to racing have been released, and as the Monacos roots are so strong to racing we have chosen to present this Gulf limited edition. This Monaco has the old “Heuer” logo, a winding crown on the left side of the case, sunray dial with pearl white counters at 3 and 9 o’clock, and a date window at 6.
Key stats about the watch:
Reference number: CAW211R.FC6401
Size: 39mm
Water resistance: 100m
Movement: Calibre 11
Lug width: 22mm
Conclusion
As presented, a great way to start your collection would be with one watch in each of these categories: Diving, GMT, and Chronograph. Of course, dial colors, editions, bracelet types, and sizes of the mentioned models can be switched out to your preference just like the models themselves.
By starting your collection this way it’s easy to sort out some complications or types of watches if you do not like them. Perhaps you are looking to upgrade your watch, or maybe try a new style after going with one watch in these fields.
What would be your picks if you have to choose a watch in each of these categories? Would you perhaps replace any of the mentioned categories with another?
