What is Rolex Reference Number? Complete Guide
Another word for reference number is model number. Each and every single Rolex watch has a reference number which denotes which type of model it is.
But did you know that Rolex reference numbers actually follow a clear system? Did you know that Rolex reference numbers can give you a lot of information about the model, its design, and its materials, solely by looking at the numbers?
The Rolex reference numbers can give you detailed information about the production period of a watch, its appearance, and much more. With that said, knowing how the system works can allow you to identify a model and its characteristics by its reference number without having to learn each and every single one by heart.
In this article, we’ll take a look at Rolex reference numbers, how the Rolex reference number system works, and everything you should know about them.
Background and history of Rolex reference numbers
If you go back in time, you’ll notice that Rolex’s reference numbers have become longer over time. Rolex first started out with 4-digit reference numbers but today, they consist of 6 digits.
Rolex introduced the 5-digit reference number system in the mid-1970s and the six-digit reference numbers in the early 2000s. In recent years, with the 5-digit reference numbers, a common trend was that Rolex added a ”1” in the reference number to denote a new generation model, which became ”11”. In more recent times, Rolex has changed one or both of these digits to denote a new generation model. For example, in 2020, the Submariner became 124060 from 114060. In 2021, the Explorer II became 226570 from 216570. The use of ”2s” in the reference numbers is a convenient way to indicate a new generation model and so it is possible that Rolex will continue using this system in the future, by changing the ”2” for a ”3” and perhaps later even a ”3” for a ”4”. But only time will tell how Rolex decided to further develop its serial number system.
All models from 2000 begin with 1 or 2.
Let’s start with the last digit of the Rolex reference number system. The last digit in the reference number actually denotes the material of the case.
Metal code at the end of the reference number of the watch and bracelet :
0 = Oystersteel
1 = Oystersteel and 18 ct Everose gold (Everose Rolesor)
2 = Oystersteel and platinum (Rolesium)
3 = Oystersteel and 18 ct yellow gold (yellow Rolesor)
4 = Oystersteel and 18 ct white gold (white Rolesor)
5 = 18 ct pink gold (Everose gold)
6 = Platinum
8 = 18 ct yellow gold
9 = 18 ct white gold
Note that Rolex has reference numbers, or part numbers, for its bracelets as well. The metal code can therefore be used to identify the metal of a bracelet as well. Overall, you could technically say that the bracelet and the case are the exact same thing, but there are some exceptions.
For example, whilst the 116613LN has a gold and steel bracelet, which would make it correct to say that the bracelet is the part that the reference number indicates, the Yacht-Master 126622 has a full stainless steel bracelet, but the case is a Rolesium case. If we would only look at the bracelet reference number, we would be misled and believe that the whole watch is made of stainless steel.
The first digits of the reference number indicate the model line
The first two, three, or four digits of a Rolex reference number indicate the model line, or family that the watch is a part of. Rolex started adding a ”1” at the beginning of the reference numbers in the 2000s to indicate that the model was a new generation. These later models, therefore, have an 11. In 2020, Rolex changed the 11 to 12 to denote yet a newer generation of models.
- Oyster Perpetual : 10, 140, 142, 11, 1242
- Air-King : 55, 140, 1169, 1269
- Date : 15, 150
- Datejust 36 : 16,162, 1162, 1262
- Datejust 41: 1263
- Daytona Cosmograph : 165, 1165
- Explorer : 142, 10, 1142, 2142, 1242
- Explorer II : 16, 165, 2165, 2265
- Sea Dweller : 16, 166, 1166, 1266
- Submariner : 16, 166, 168, 1166, 1266
- Submariner (no date) : 55 & 140, 1140, 1240
- GMT Master : 16, 65, 167
- GMT Master II : 167, 167, 1267
- Oysterquartz Datejust : 170
- Oysterquartz Day-Date : 190
- Day-Date 36: 65, 18, 180, 182, 183, 1182, 1282
- Day-Date 40: 2282
- Yachtmaster : 166, 686, 696,1686, 1696, 11662, 12662
Bezel type – second from the last digit
Whilst the last digit of the reference number indicates the metal of the watch, the second to last digit indicates the type of bezel that the model has. Note that this, however, does not apply to professional watches. In other words, Rolex does not have separate digits for, for example, diving bezels or a GMT bezel.
0: Smooth / Domed / Polished
1: Engine Turned
2: Engrave
3: Fluted
4: Hand-Crafted/bark finish
5: Pyramid
6: Rotating Bezel
7: Others, for example, Explorer II
The last letters of the reference number
Some reference numbers are followed by up to 4 letters, for example, CHNR or BLNR.
These letters are used to denote the color of the bezel if it is made of ceramic. Watches with gem-set bezels can also have letters at the end of the reference number. In this case, it usually refers to the types of gems used – and in some cases, the colors of the gems used.
For example, for the Submariner 126610LN, the LN stands for ”lunette noir” which means black glass, referring to the black ceramic bezel insert.
And in the case of a gem-set bezel, the lettering ”SARU”, for example, stands for Sapphire Rubies, which indicates the bezel is set with sapphires and rubies.
Some common letter codes of Rolex models are:
- LN = Lunette Noire. Black ceramic bezel. Used on Submariner and GMT-Master II.
- LB = Lunette Bleue. Blue ceramic bezel. Used on Submariner.
- LV = Lunette Verte. Green ceramic bezel- Used in the Submariner 116610LV.
- GV = Glace Verte. Green glass, used in the Milgauss
- CHNR = Chocolat/Noir. Brown and black bezel used on the GMT-Master II (for example ref 126711CHNR)
- BLRO = Bleu/Rouge -Blue and red. Refers to the bezel of the GMT-Master
- BLNR = Bleu/Noir – Blue and black. Refers to the bezel of the GMT-Master with the black and blue color scheme
- SARU = Saphirs, Rubis. Set with sapphires and rubies.
- SACO = Sapphirs cognac. Set with cognac-colored sapphires.
- TBR = Tessellate Brilliants. Set with diamonds and sapphires.
- SANR = saphirs noir. Set with black sapphires.
- SABR = saphirs, Brillants. Set with sapphires and diamonds.
- TEM = Tessellate emeraude. Set with emeralds.
- SABLV = saphirs bleu, Vert. Set with blue and green sapphires.
- SAFUBL = sapphires fuchsia bleu. Set with fuchsia and blue sapphires.
- SAJOR = Sapphires jaunt orange. Set with yellow and orange sapphires.
Finding the reference number of your watch
The reference number of your Rolex watch is engraved on the case at 12 o’clock behind the bracelet. If you are unsure about which reference number you have, you can simply remove the bracelet at 12 o’clock and take a look at the reference number that is engraved. Read our complete guide to removing the bracelet on your Rolex watch here.
If you still have the original warranty card, the reference number will also be found here.
Reference number extension
Rolex also has an extension system for its reference number to make it possible to identify the dial of the watch.
When talking about a model in general, most people just use the standard reference number, for example, 126334. But the complete dial with the dial designation is usually used by official retailers and Rolex internally for example when invoicing watches or when a retailer requests a specific timepiece from Rolex.
If you visit the Rolex.com website and look at a specific watch, you will be able to see the complete reference number in the URL. If we, for instance, look at the meteorite dial GMT-Master II, the complete reference number with the exact dial configuration is “126719blro-0002, where the -0002 extension indicates the dial.
The dial extensions that Rolex use are either -00XX or -000X. This depends on the number of dial configurations that the specific model has. For example, if it has more than 10 dial configurations, there will naturally be extensions with two digits. But if the reference only has a few dial configurations, they will always have 3 zeroes.
