Rolex Pearlmaster Models Complete Reference List & Guide
The Pearlmaster is a spin-off of the iconic Datejust. It carries the DNA but has been designed to be more elegant and less sporty. To achieve this, Rolex started with one of its most iconic models then revised and refined it to become a true piece of jewelry. Whilst most of Rolex’s watches are built as functional tools, the Pearlmaster is more so focused on design and luxuriousness.
In Rolex’s own words:
“The Rolex Pearlmaster features softly curved lines and is characterised by uniquely rich dials with exquisite diamonds.”
Background and history of the Cellini
The first Lady-Datejust Pearlmaster was launched in 1992 in two sizes, 29mm and 34mm versions. Because they are built to be at the top in terms of luxuriousness and elegance, Pearlmasters are exclusively made in precious metal, predominantly yellow or white gold. But they have also been made in platinum and rose gold.
Rolex doesn’t release completely new model lines very frequently. And as such, the Pearlmaster is one of Rolex’s most recently released models, although there have been a few in between.
With the release of the Pearlmaster, Rolex now had an offering exclusively dedicated to women. Whilst Rolex had plenty of ladies’ watches in its offering, most of them were essentially just smaller versions of men’s watches. Mainly Datejust and Lady-Datejust models. The Pearlmaster set out to close this gap and create an offering that was strictly focused on a female audience. To appeal to this target group better, Rolex understood that they needed a more feminine watch, a watch that was strictly dedicated to females.
Rolex calls the Pearlmaster their “crowning jewelry watch”.
The best part? In designing a watch that was intended more as jewelry, Rolex did not abandon its principles of functionality and durability. As such, the Pearlmaster is built with Rolex’s iconic (and well-performing) Oyster case.
To enhance the elegance further, what better way than to add gemstones and diamonds to them? This is why many of the Pearlmaster models are also gem-set. This also filled a gap in Rolex’s gem-set space because there were never really any Datejust or Lady-Datejust that was heavily gem-set.
Rolex has also taken the opportunity that the Pearlmaster to create models on which they have gone all-in on the gem-setting. This means models that are completely gem-set or at least heavily gem-set. Rolex calls these watches “Masterpieces” due to the complexity of making them and the extravagant appearances they get. In the beginning, Rolex was, generally speaking, quite reserved with gem-setting. But in the most recent decades, Rolex has really dared to experiment and created models that are covered in gemstones. These “iced-out” timepieces are some of Rolex’s most extraordinary “masterpiece” creations, and they are also the most expensive in the Rolex range.
In designing the Pearlmaster, they also designed a distinct bracelet for the model. Being born from the Datejust, its bracelet naturally shares some similarities with the Oyster bracelet. But the lines have been clearly rounded to reduce the level of sportiness and increase its level of elegance. Naturally, Rolex calls it the Pearlmaster bracelet. The Pearlmaster bracelet has five rounded links without any sharp, sporty edges, and they are finished off with a concealed Crownlock clasp.
Evolving of the Pearlmaster model
Throughout the years, Rolex has made reserved but notable upgrades and changes to the Pearlmaster model in a number of different ways.
Originally, the Pearlmasters were powered by the in-house Rolex caliber 2135 which is a modified version of the iconic 3135 that is known to be a robust and long-lasting movement. Naturally, the key change for these movements was the reduction of size in order to fit the smaller cases of the Pearlmasters.
In 1999, Rolex replaced this caliber with the new generation caliber 2235.
At the end of the 1990s and the beginning of the 2000s, Rolex really went all-in with gem-setting the Pearlmaster watches. From this time onwards, we can see some truly exceptional gem-set creations in the Pearlmaster range, and naturally, with exceptional price tags.
In 2005, Rolex created the first Pearlmaster in Everose rose gold.
In 2015, Rolex expanded the Pearlmaster range by adding a 39mm version, following the trend of moving towards larger watches. This also means that the Rolex Pearl master now – for the first time – was available as a unisex model. Rolex fitted the new generation caliber 3235 in this new movement. From this point, the Pearlmaster collection was only made available in 34mm and 39mm.
Today, Rolex has no Pearlmaster in its standard collection. As this is, in Rolex’s words, the “crowning jewelry watch”, Rolex treats it as such. Therefore, the Pearlmaster is an off-catalog model that is only to be ordered on request.
Complete list Rolex Pearlmaster models and production years
- 80285
- 69299: 1993-1999
- 6309BR: 1995-1999
- 69309EM: 1995-1999
- 69309RU: 1995-1999
- 69309SACI: 1995-1999
- 69309SARO: 1995-1999
- 69319: 1995-1999
- 69329: 1995-1999
- 69369: 1995-1999
- 80299: 1999-2017
- 80309BR: 2002-2012
- 80309SACI: 1999-2012
- 80309SACO: 1999-2007
- 80309SALDV: 1999-2008
- 80319: 1999-2017
- 80329: 1999-2001
- 80339: 2002-2012
- 80359: 1999-2011
- 69298: 1993: 1999
- 69308BR: 1993-1999
- 69308EM: 1995-1999
- 69308RU: 1995-1999
- 69308SA: 1993-1999
- 69308SARO: 1993-1999
- 69318: 1995-1999
- 69328: 1998-1999
- 80298: 1999-2017
- 80308BR: 1999-2012
- 80308EM: 1999-2012
- 80308RU: 1999-2011
- 80308SA: 1999-2012
- 80308SARO: 1999-2012
- 80318: 1999-2017
- 80328: 1999-2001
- 80315
- 81285
- 81159: 2008-2019
- 81209: 1999-2012
- 81299: 2008-2019
- 81319: 2008-2019
- 81339: 2002-2016
- 81349SA: 2014-2015
- 81409RR: 2016-
- 8158: 2004-2019
- 81208: 2004-2012
- 81298: 2008-2018
- 81308BR: 2004-2012
- 81318: 2008-2019
- 81338: 2004-2016
- 81348SARO: 2014-2015
- 81358: 2004-2012
- 81315: 2011-2019
- 81405RBR: 2017-
- 86285
- 86280: 2017-2019
- 86349SAFUBL: 2015-
- 86409RBR: 2016-2021
- 86348SABLV: 2015
- 86348SAJOR: 2015-
- 86345SAJOR: 2017-
- 86405RBR: 2017-2021
