Tudor Buyer’s Guide – Complete Guide to Buying Tudor Watches
Tudor is a watch company that has a long and interesting history, yet remained unknown to a lot of people until the recent decade. Perhaps you are one of those people who were previously unaware of the Tudor brand and its long history, and now have found yourself captivated by its interesting history and qualitative timepieces, and are now looking to acquire your first Tudor watch.
In this complete Tudor buyer’s guide, we will go through the background and history of the brand, the details of the watches, as well as the most popular models from the brand, which tend to be the ones that most people find themselves acquiring as their first Tudor watch.
Tudor buyer’s guide – a complete guide
The Tudor brand was established in Geneva in 1926 – founded by Hans Wilsdorf. Yes, that is the same man that founded Rolex. With that said, it’s easy to have a lot of interesting discussions about Tudor’s current and previous relationship with Rolex.
Speaking of founding the brand, he said: “For some years now, I have been considering the idea of making a watch our agents could sell at a more modest price than our Rolex watches, and yet one that would attain the standards of durability for which Rolex is famous. I decided to form a separate company, with the object of making and marketing this new watch. It is called the Tudor Watch Company.”
In the beginning, Tudor watches were made, to a large extent, with Rolex parts, only fitted with different dials and off-the-shelf ETA movements in order to make them more accessible in price. This is why you can find vintage Tudor watches with Rolex logos or markings on the case and crown.
Now, today, whilst you can see a connection between Tudor’s modern watches and some of Rolex’s current and previous models. But looking at the current Tudor collection, you will be able to quickly see that Tudor has gone its own way and tried to differentiate itself from the Rolex brand.
Because of Tudor’s previous history and close relationship with Rolex, Tudor has long been referred to by many as a ”poor man’s Rolex”, but today, this is a description that, according to us, is no longer applicable to the brand. Still, we can see people saying just that, but we would argue that these people do not know the full story of the modern Tudor brand.
In 2019, the Tudor brand was relaunched after several decades of hibernation – having been absent from a number of important markets, including the USA. This marked an important event for the Tudor brand as it would come to become the start of a time when Tudor started differentiating itself from Rolex more, and simply trying to become a watch brand strong enough to stand on its own legs and not have to rely on the prestige of Rolex in order to sell watches.
And today, it’s safe to say that Tudor has absolutely succeeded with this. Since its relaunch, the brand has received numerous awards for several of its watches and started becoming appreciated by collectors worldwide. Today, we would argue that it’s not a question of ”should I get one or the other” because many Rolex owners also have Tudor because they appreciate their history and their quality. There is not necessarily a need to compare them. People just appreciate them for what they are.
So, what has helped Tudor differentiate itself from Rolex?
Well, first and foremost, Tudor has released a number of different models which are Tudor’s own models that have become iconic and recognizable to the brand and the brand only. Secondly, Tudor has started developing and releasing more and more in-house movements, and has turned away from ETA movements for many of its models.
Of course, in developing these in-house movements, Tudor has taken help from Rolex’s experience and expertise seeing that Tudor is still to this very day owned by Rolex, but this is necessarily a bad thing. Instead, it means that you get a high-quality timepiece with a great finish, equipped with an in-house movement developed with Rolex’s centuries-long know-how and expertise, yet at a fraction of the price. What’s not to like about that?
Tudor buyer’s guide: quality and craftsmanship
The Tudor watches today are all 100% manufactured in Switzerland.
They have a high finish and feel robust and solid. If you compare a Tudor watch with many competitors at the same price point, you will find that Tudor watches are very much in the race, and a lot of the time superior to the competitors both in terms of finish and movement.
Many watches in the same price range have an inferior feel of quality to Tudor, and many of them are also equipped with standard ETA movements. While Tudor still uses ETA movements from some of its models, the brand has shown that it is capable of developing and making movements that are both high-quality and reliable. Plus, over time, we can only expect Tudor to start incorporating in-house movements in more of its watches and abandoning externally-made calibers.
Speaking of Tudor in-house calibers, let’s go a bit more into detail about the calibers that Tudor develops.
Tudor calibers
The first Tudor watch to be equipped with an in-house movement is the North Flag, with the caliber MT5621 (MT for Manufacture Tudor).
This caliber is fully in-house, and has, as touched upon previously, been developed with help from Rolex. This is of course not a negative thing. Quite the opposite actually.
The step of releasing the first watch with an in-house movement is actually quite an important step for the brand, because previously, the simple way to differentiate Tudor and Rolex has been that Tudor always uses outsourced movements from ETA, and Rolex only in-house movements, but as Tudor continues to release more and more in-house movements, the lines are now blurrier than ever.
In-house movements are something that watch enthusiasts go crazy about, simply because they are regarded so highly in the industry.
To understand why, we share a quote by @m0c021 from Watchuseek:
”In-house just means that the manufacturer makes it themselves. This is usually associated with better quality because the manufacturer has control of the entire production process, but this does not necessarily mean it is better quality. It’s like buying guac from a store or making it yourself (in-house). Buying it from the store has a set standard and you have to use it from there. You can add things to it (modified movements) but it is still only added to what you bought. The homemade one (in-house) can have better quality control as you decide what goes in (fresher ingredients, no preservatives, etc). On the other hand, your homemade guac can turn out worse than the store-bought one, just as an in house movement can be worse than a mass-produced one.”
”In-house does not indicate it is different than mass-produced from a technical/watchmaking perspective. Mass-produced is aiming to make a good product at a cheap price, but in-house can implement more costly and/or difficult techniques, designs, mechanisms, etc that may not be as cost-effective. So basically what I am trying to say is that in-house has more freedom to challenge/improve the technical aspect of watchmaking.”
By Tudor releasing more in-house movements, they get greater control over their production chain and thus can develop and adjust their movements as they see appropriate.
As mentioned, Tudor is in a fortunate position since it is under the ownership of Rolex. Developing in-house movements is no easy task, as it demands both time and tons of resources. The good news is that Rolex is an expert in in-house movements, and so Tudor has been able to learn from its bigger brother in order to develop more reliable and qualitative movements. Tudor’s in-house movements are packed with great features that improve their movements. This includes a free-sprung balance, a full balance bridge, an anti-magnetic silicon hairspring, and a long power reserve. Oh, and Tudor’s movements are also certified Chronometers.
When you want something different
Tudor is the brand for you if you are looking to buy something different, yet a watch that carries a long and interesting history is powered by a reliable movement (in-house or not), and holds a high quality with an impressive finish. All of this at a relatively affordable price, of course.
Then Tudor is the brand for you. Seeing that Tudor has taken inspiration from its heritage for many of its current models, it goes to show that the designs are truly timeless. And if they have remained relevant for many decades, they will continue to be in fashion for many decades onwards.
Really cheap watches tend to be thrown away by some people when they stop working, but when you have spent quite a bit of money on a watch, the only thing that makes sense to do if your watch stops working, or has any issues, is to repair it. And that’s the great thing about a Tudor. Unlike a cheap low-quality watch that you throw away when it breaks, a Tudor watch can actually be a long-lasting symbol or even an heirloom. Many of Tudor’s vintage watches have become popular collector’s watches today, and the first models produced during the brand’s relaunch could follow the same path. Have in mind how important these have proven to be for the brand.
What many people like about Tudor is that you get something different, yet Swiss Made, qualitative, and relatively affordable. The Tudor watches have to go through strict and tough tests before they leave the factory, which ensures their long-lasting quality.
Tudor’s most popular and iconic models
Since you are reading this Tudor’s buyer’s guide, you are probably also considering buying your first Tudor watch. But.. which model should you choose? Tudor offers an array of different models from a number of different ranges.
Let’s look at the most popular models from Tudor and discuss what they have to offer.
Heritage Black Bay
The Heritage Black Bay is unarguably the most popular model from Tudor.
It was originally launched in 2012, as part of the brand’s relaunch, and it was instantly met with praise.
Since 2012, Tudor has continued to build upon this model and introduced countless variants. Just to mention a few, Tudor has released a GMT variant, a Chronograph, a gold and steel version, a full steel version, and a bronze version…. And so on.
However, common for all of these versions are a number of different design features that make this model instantly recognizable.
The Heritage Black Bay model has taken inspiration from a number of different vintage Tudor dive watches that the brand produced in the 50s and 60s. It is not a ”re-issue” of only one single watch, which is often the case with ”heritage” models. Instead, Tudor has taken the best parts from a number of watches and incorporated them into one.
Some of the most iconic and recognizable design elements of this watch are: A large big crown without crown guards, a matte dial, and snowflake hands. These design elements can be found on different vintage Tudor dive watches from that time.
With such a large selection to choose from within the Black Bay range, you are sure to find a watch that suits your taste and preferences.
Furthermore, when the Black Bay model was first released in 2012, it was equipped with an off-the-shelf ETA movement. But in 2016, Tudor launched a new version of this model, equipped with an in-house Tudor movement. With that said, the Black Bay model now also offers the value proposition of an in-house movement.
What unites all Black Bay watches is a strong connection to Tudor’s unique design language and the traits that have always set these sport watches apart from the rest.
Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight
While we are on the topic of the Black Bay model, we just have to mention two particular versions. The first one is the Black Bay Fifty-Eight reference 79030N.
This watch was released at Baselworld 2018 and met with immense praise.
Why?
Well, at its core, the watch is very similar to the standard Black Bay model. But the main difference is its size.
Something that a lot of people have complained about when it comes to the standard Black Bay models are their size of 41.5mm being too large. Some people do think this size is perfect but bear in mind that the Black Bay watches are supposed to be vintage-inspired. And in the 50s and 60s, the standard size of watches certainly wasn’t 40mm or over.
With that said, the Tudor Fifty-Eight is a smaller version of the standard Black bay, featuring a 39mm case. Furthermore, thanks to a new in-house movement, the watch has also been made slimmer.
With the smaller case, the Tudor Fifty-Eight really stays true to the original watches from which they have taken inspiration. It also makes the model more accessible to the people who are not able to pull off the standard Black Bay.
Tudor GMT
Another model from the range that we need to highlight is the Tudor Black Bay GMT. Just like all Black Bay watches, it features design elements such as the snowflake hands, matte dial, and big crown without crown guards. But what is most special about this watch is that it is a GMT watch.
It is the first GMT watch from Tudor, and since its launch in 2018, it has proven to be a huge success.
The watch has a blue and red bi-color bidirectional rotating bezel made in burgundy red and blue. What is interesting about this color scheme is that Tudor’s bigger brother first released a GMT watch with that color scheme for its reference 6542, And while Tudor has not released a similar watch previously, it’s still a nod to Rolex’s and Tudor’s history and past.
And if you compare the Rolex 6542 and Tudor GMT, you will be able to notice a number of different similarities.
Tudor Pelagos
Another model to mention is the Tudor Pelagos.
This watch is actually a brand new design from Tudor, and thus not a ”re-issue” style watch. However, it does feature some iconic Tudor design features, with the most notable being the snowflake hands.
But overall, the Tudor Pelagos is a brand new model and a watch that has allowed Tudor to also write its modern history and not just look back at the past.
The Pelagos, you could say is one step more robust, sporty, and tool-like than the Black Bay model. So if you are looking for a really sports and industry-like timepiece, the Pelagos may be for you. First of all, its case and bracelet are made of full titanium. All metal is brushed to add to the industrial feel -unlike the Black Bay which has both polished and brushed parts. Furthermore, it is water-resistant to 500m and equipped with a helium escape valve – an essential device if you’re doing any ‘saturation’ dives. The Pelagos is equipped with a Tudor-patented auto-adjustable bracelet that expands or contracts with varying depth and water pressure.
The legibility has also been improved with this model, with generously sized square hour markers and easy-to-read snowflake hands. The luminous material on the hand and indices also ensure great visibility.
The Pelagos really is a sporty and serious tool watch.
Tudor North Flag
The Tudor North Flag is, as mentioned, the first Tudor watch to be equipped with an in-house caliber, completely manufactured by Tudor.
This model pays its respects to the horological history of Tudor timepieces of the 1950s. More specifically the Tudor Oyster Prince watches. It is powered by the Tudor MT5621.
The North Flag is a robust and bold sports watch that goes perfectly in line with Tudor’s slogan ”Born to dare”.
It is a true adventurer’s watch, and to further build on this, it has sharp yet elegant lines, and its design is something unique and new, which shows that Tudor also dares to develop new models.
Tudor Glamour
Tudor also makes elegant ladies’ watches and not only robust and rugged sports watches.
One of these collections is the Glamour collection. The Glamour collection is also a lineup of men’s watches.
Tudor describes the range as ”A striking example of TUDOR’s trademark retro-chic style, the TUDOR Glamour line offers elegance and sophistication alongside a broad range of features. From the daintiest Glamour Date model to the larger Date+Day and Double Date models, the selection is exquisite and varied.”
Looking for a Tudor watch?
If you are looking for a Tudor watch, do not hesitate to browse our range of Tudor watches available. If you cannot find the Tudor you are looking for, you are very welcome to reach out to us and we will be happy to help you.
